South Georgia

 

Possesion Bay

South Georgia knows how to hide her secrets.

 

 

South Atlantic affair

December 2009

 

I am 36 and I thought I could not be easily amazed every day. I was wrong. Here in the south, everything is powerfull. Strong winds, big seas, abundance of life anywhere you look. I always liked it. And now - a woman! I fell in love. Her name is Georgia and of out the three well known by that name she is the most southern one.

 

 

She is passionate, mysterious, wild and extremely beautiful. That is why she is loved by many. Who knows her does not guestion her strong temperament. Some say she is the gem. All this makes a rather dangerous combination. You might even think she is tricky. Without any doubts she is also wonderfully rich.

 

Albatros chick and Giant petrel

 

 

 

I can not say I know her well. And the more I found the more I know it is not enough. I found her infatuately soft, warm, green, and whispering. Also sharp, icy white and screaming. She has a whip spliced of the most furious winds. She is a crystal now and unfathomable gray later. Gentleness of blue eyes of a little girl, unaccesibillity of dark fortresses never imagined by a man, ocean depths´ silence, all thunders´ roar and brightness clearer than any eyes can bear.

   
    Cape Dissappointment            Undine Harbour  

 

 

She is full of life. You can look anywhere and anytime. Sometimes it is bursting out. Miracles. Cheereful lightness of tiny petrels, walking on the sea. Brisky flash by of prions, million times. Pure white of the huge Wanderer´s wings. Angels can not have much different. What did I hear? Striking roar. Giants -harmless to something as insignificant as me. But every beauty has her guard. The knights fight fiercefully. I was chased but I did not run away. And suddenly I was in a hive. Chatter of hundreds thusands flightless bees.

 

Wandereing Albatros - wingspan up to 3.5 meters

 

I am telling the truth. I am just not using scientific names. They are useless. I am in love.

 

King penguins

Wildlife everywhere

 
    Grey headed albatros            Macaroni Penguins  

 

 

Looking at numbers, this island belongs to waterbirds


 

 

A elephant seal bull chalenging the beach harem holder from a distance

Mermaids of etherical beauty can be seen in local bays. Their seductive looks lead many ships to peril during the years.

 

   
    Fur seals            King penguins  

 

 

The guards are always on duty. Fighting fiercefully, no negotiating. Kings on the other hand delegated a spokesman.


 

 

Elephant seals

Well deserved rest for elephant seals after ocean trips. Sometimes thousands miles long and occasiaonally about a mile deep.

 

 

Politics: going left

South Georgia is unique from another aspect. The most expensive island to touch. After paying 160 pounds I was allowed to go ashore. (If I was planning to sleep ashore it would be 500 pounds more). I also received a thick lot of valuable documents giving me the very essential information: „All travel has inherent risks ... the Government of South Georgia ...will not accept any liability whatsoever...“ (underlined). Deal. The money is not much usefull on the ocean anyway. To cheer me me up I was given emocional support immediately: „Drinking water is all free“. And „You can stay as long as you want“. Show me more welcoming island in the whole universe!

 

Perhaps, the government provides a generous social wellfare program for all of the permanent citizens. Not an easy task at all:

 

Antarctic prions ..........    44 000 000     individuals

Burrowing petrels .......    16 000 000

Penguins          ............      3 000 000

Albatroses   .................        260 000     (not  so many, but they can live very long)

 

Fur seals ........ .....at least   3 000 000     and growing (Birth control education program  was not very  efficient but it cost a lot.)

Elephant seals ............          200 000     (not many but look how fat they are)

Norway rat .................                     ?      too many but permanently boycott census

Homo Sapiens ............                      0     (the only specie where the exact number is known)

(approx. breeding populations)

 

The budget is covered by two main sources of income: selling fishing licences in territorial waters and tourism. Thousands of visitors (mostly on cruiseships). I believe they everybody is extremely happy to pay 100 pounds visitors fee. Besides who wants a goverment official to go starving and since local inhabitants do not have any cash, the citizens´ honour was delegated to us. Ich dien.

 

The old days of the good Sir Francis are long gone. Pirates became procurers and I am gratefull to be alived and still having my little boat. The Government of South Georgia and South Sandwich Islands is in the lead of this modern humanistic trend. 

 

Milions of hungry throats

     

Graae Glacier in Trollhul

 
    Trollhul in 1984, SY Totorore            Trollhul in 2009  

 

 

Trollhul in September 1984 and December 2009. After seeing the photograph in Gerry Clark´s book I could hardly miss to go there.


Ledovec v zátoce Trollhul
(Graae glacier, South Georgia)

Otevírám vzácnou knihu
deník pana Jerry Clarka
když plul k dalekému jihu
on a jeho malá bárka

V zátoce v tom chladném kraji
mocný ledovec jen září 
krása, že se až dech tají
obrázek jak v kalendáři

Je to jako s fotkou krásky
když jí potkáš po třech dětech?
Má i ledovec své vrásky?
Zjistím po dvaceti letech

Testoval jsem zemské klima 
co z kolosu ještě zbývá
byla mi tam velká zima
zas tak moc se neohřívá 

Není třeba vraštit čelo
chtěl bych uklidnit vás všechny 
trochu nám to vopršelo
pořád je to ale pěkný

Kdo se ráčíš obávati
nadměrného oteplení
na Hrad běž se dotázati
vševěd praví: "To nic není".



Wirik Bay
(from South Georgia)

První den po velké bouři
když už vichr přestal dout
jachtař jenom spí či kouří
vzdutým mořem nechce plout

Já však budu kormidlovat 
jsem z těch, kdo se nefláká 
do Wirik Bay obdivovat
kosti obra - plejtváka

Zdálky se tam příboj tvářil
věru celkem nevinně
u pláže však můj člun zvrátil
v jedné hbité vteřině

Chytám vesla pro dny příští
a už nejsem znuděný
kdo se topil v lední tříšti
ví, jak je to studený

Nenasytný Atlantiku
zloději čepic a bot
pravá tekla, já mám kliku
to ti sotva přijde vhod

Usušit se domů spěchám
a vím, že jsem pitomec
ještě že tam kostru nechal 
jen ten velkej kytovec


Penguins are better trained to strugle thrue the surf. They do not need to change clothes when something goes wrong.

Elsehul

Elsehul Elsehul
pláž je dlouhá míle půl

lachtanů tam celé šiky
a jsou rychlí jako štiky
návštěvy si nepřejí
vyjednávat nechtějí


Elsehul Elsehul
já si na ně vezmu hůl

řvou na mě jak vzteklej medvěd
chtěl bych flintu ráže devět
maj infekční tesáky
prokousnou mi tepláky

Elsehul Elsehul
že já jsem sem vůbec plul?

Well developed teritoriality, nothing personal.

     

Záliv krále Haakona

Mocný králi Haakone
fouká to tam, nebo ne?

Větru síly třináct stupňů
je pro mě tak akorát
chvíli mlčím a pak dupnu
všechny je mám stejně rád.

Menu Back on board